When BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF arrived, it did so with a bottle conceived in shut dialogue with perfumer Olivier Polge, a scent approached with the uncommon depth of an extrait and a design that needed to make that energy seen. For Sylvie Legastelois, Director of Packaging Creation and Graphic Id at CHANEL Parfums/Beauté, the transient was clear: create a robust, particular kind that alerts focus from the very first look.
Sylvie Legastelois describes the silhouette as “inkwell-like,” a visible metaphor for density and depth. The result’s a bottle that feels acquainted but completely re-engineered: intrigue on first sight, discovery on re-assessment. Its elevation will depend on minute choices — bevels and columns, the distribution of glass, even the bottom, or “marloquette.”
In her personal phrases, “kind displays components,” revealing the perfume’s extraordinary depth. Blue, in the meantime, is handled as a non secular color, mysterious, “too black to be blue, too blue to be black”, rooted in CHANEL archives but resonant with the current. References drift from Soulages’ profound blues to the architectural rigour of Tadao Ando: volumes, supplies, inside and exterior in good dialog.
The debut of BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF is accompanied by a brand new bottle. How did you’re employed with Olivier Polge to convey it to life? Olivier was deeply impressed by this mission. And that’s necessary! With out inspiration, there isn’t any perfume. He approached BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF like a ladies’s fragrance extract — with the identical depth. That’s unprecedented for males’s fragrances. It aligned completely with the non secular energy of the color blue. He went past what he had achieved for the unique fragrance. It’s an inspiring crescendo. The dimensions of the problem Olivier set for himself actually charted the trail for me. I instructed myself the bottle needed to mirror the efficiency of this extract. We would have liked a particular bottle with a really robust form and id that will supply a transparent visible expression of the perfume’s focus, for the reason that identify alone wouldn’t counsel it.
How would you describe this bottle? The primary comparability that involves thoughts is an inkwell. And I actually like that concept. The focus of ink evokes the notion of depth in addition to the non secular resonance of the phrases written with that ink. This picture happened whereas sketching and designing the bottle, throughout my discussions with Olivier Polge.
This new perfume is a fancy composition, very similar to an extract. The general impression is radical and intense. How do you translate that depth into design? I translated this sense of depth by way of the thought of focus. I wished the design to be intriguing — for somebody to initially suppose it’s the identical bottle as earlier than, after which realise, upon nearer commentary, that all the pieces is completely different. I like when issues aren’t instantly apparent, when all the pieces doesn’t reveal itself without delay. When making an attempt to densify or intensify a kind, you need to create a robust construction with out letting the form change into heavy or overwhelming. It’s fairly difficult to protect the ethereal power of a design — its elevation. You must pay shut consideration to the bevels, the columns, the distribution of the glass, and the bottom of the bottle, which we name the “marloquette”. I imagine that for BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF, kind displays components, revealing on the skin the extraordinary depth held inside.
What does the color blue characterize to you and to CHANEL? Blue is a non secular color. It has an indefinable high quality. Is it blue? Is it black? “Too black to be blue, too blue to be black…” I really like that versatility. Additionally, you’ll be able to see within the archives that Gabrielle Chanel favored to combine navy blue and black. She appreciated that mysterious high quality. Within the Nineteen Thirties, she created Bleu de CHANEL, identical to Beige de CHANEL and Rouge de CHANEL. So this color is totally legit. It’s a part of our heritage.
The historical past of the color blue is intensive. Which of its shades spring to mind by BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF? After I say that blue is a non secular color, I imply a color with out boundaries. It’s naturally intense; it evokes the depths of the ocean in addition to the vastness of the sky. It’s oriented in the direction of the longer term. If crimson represents motion, blue speaks extra to projection. This color displays Gabrielle Chanel’s want “to be a part of what will occur”.
On the spectrum of blue, the place does the bottle sit? Someplace between Klein and Soulages? Klein’s blue is stuffed with power and vitality. It’s one thing past a color. It’s a dimension unto itself. This Bleu de CHANEL is nearer to the blues of Soulages. Soulages is understood for his “outrenoir”, however he additionally created blues of extraordinary depth — deep and shifting.
Is it a craft fairly near structure? Would you say structure is a supply of inspiration for you? Sure, I actually admire Le Corbusier’s work, and I’m usually impressed by his masterful sense of quantity. On this case, although, I’d suppose extra of the work of Tadao AndŌ, whom I love enormously, notably a few of the homes he in-built Japan — his means of composing with containers, making volumes and supplies work together, and enjoying with the connection between inside and exterior.
How would you describe this perfume in three phrases? Concentrated, intense, refined.
To Conclude,
Throughout BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF, Sylvie Legastelois reveals how CHANEL’s design codes evolve by intensifying what issues. The bottle doesn’t shout; it concentrates. It invitations a double take, then rewards it by way of construction and proportion, a research in density with out heaviness. Its chromatic language is equally purposeful: a non secular blue that belongs to the Home’s heritage whereas pointing ahead, nearer to Soulages than to spectacle, and tuned with an architect’s eye. Requested to outline the perfume in three phrases, she affords a becoming coda: concentrated, intense, refined, a triad the article itself quietly embodies.
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