Vanissa Antonious has at all times handled design like structure for the physique. Since she began NEOUS in London in 2017, the label has been about sculptural shapes, clear strains, and a type of quiet luxurious that doesn’t beg for consideration. All of it’s handmade in Italy, after all.
This fall, she’s digging via the nineties and early 2000s, pulling out the footwear and baggage that outlined the period and twisting them into one thing new. Assume kitten heels and peep toes, however seen via the lens of Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides, Alessandra Spranzi’s images of the atypical made uncanny, and Ellen von Unwerth’s glamorous, unruly portraits.
The lineup has character: the ZIRR mule with its delicate lacing, the DANUS sandal minimize from leather-based so skinny it appears like hosiery, and the CULUMBA, folded from a single sheet of leather-based. Baggage get their second too, with the BERENICES BAGUETTE tipping its hat to the last decade that made the baguette iconic.
Relating to supplies, they play a giant function, consider abrasivato burgundy, purple nappa, cream crepe de chine, and laser-cut leather-based. Shapes span from pared-back ballerina flats to sharp pumps and vintage-flavored purses.
The model calls the gathering a meditation on magnificence, borrowing from Spranzi’s method of turning on a regular basis litter — glasses, spoons, a serviette left crumpled — into one thing surprisingly fascinating. Magnificence, Antonious appears to recommend, isn’t a hard and fast level. This season, it’s all within the eye of the beholder.
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